Everything You Need to Know About Router Bits

A router bit is a cutting tool used with a router to rout out (or hollow out) spaces on the surface of a generally hard workpiece. Although routers and router bits are more commonly used in woodworking applications like cabinetry and carpentry, these cutting tools can also perform in metals, plastics, and various other materials. 

 

 

Essentially, though, these cutters are used to create joinery aids (like a dovetail joint) or to embellish workpieces with decorative or ornate effects (like formed edges, intricate inlays, or surface work). With the right router bit, users can cut, trim, and shape workpieces with staggering versatility; these bits are available in numerous profiles and can be custom fabricated to create virtually any profile conceivable.

TYPES OF ROUTER BIT

Of course, there are many different types of the router bit and although they all serve the same general purpose, they each do different things and achieve different results. A good router bit, though, should be sharp, should retain its sharp edge, and should be well balanced; this produces a bit that will last longer and will "chatter" or vibrate less during use. 

Conversely, bits of lesser quality tend to wear faster, chip easier, and chatter more aggressively. The following, then, is a basic breakdown of how router bits are most commonly categorized and their respective routing applications.

Cutter Type:

For the most part, router bits can be divided into three major types: fluted cutters, profile cutters, and helical cutters. Fluted cutters are used for edging and trimming, profile cutters are used for trimming and shaping, and helical cutters, while mostly used in more easily machined (softer) materials, are designed for trimming, shaping, and drilling. Of course, within these three groups, bits can be (and are) more specifically categorized - this will be reflected in greater detail below.

Construction:

Similarly, drill bits are usually fabricated with one of three compositions: solid high-speed steel (HSS), carbide tips, or solid carbide. HSS bits are the least expensive; they dull more quickly and, accordingly, are used primarily to trim laminate or for work in softer workpieces. Carbide tipped bits are the most universal bit type as they are more durable and perform (at least) reasonably well in all applications. 

Of course, these are more expensive than HSS bits, but they are equipped to manage harder materials and they retain their sharp edges for longer periods. Solid carbide bits, as one would assume, are the most expensive and highest-performing bit type. While some might argue that their solid carbide construction is superfluous, they are durable and deliver beautiful results. Because of their cost, though, solid carbide bits are generally used by only the most practiced woodworkers.

Router bits can also be classified as edge bits, non-edge bits, or anti-kickback bits. Edge bits include a small wheel bearing that acts as a fence against each workpiece; these wheel bearings can be changed to alter the diameter of the cutting edge. Non-edge bits do not have this wheel bearing and therefore a fence (either attached to the workpiece, the router itself, or to the router table) must be used with these bits. 

Anti-kickback bits, on another hand, feature non-cutting material surrounding the bit's "shoulders." This additional girth around the bit limits the material feed rate which, in turn, protects the workpiece from over-eager bit progress. This reduces the risk of kickback which occurs when a bit bites and catches the material it's cutting. This is usually the result of material feeding too quickly. The girth of anti-kickback bits also allows the bit to stay cooler which reduces the likelihood of burnishing and allows the bit to better retain its sharpness.

Shank:

Router bits are also differentiated by the diameter of their shank or the portion of the bit that fits into the router collet. Shank sizes commonly range from about 1/2" to about 3/8." Although 1/2" shank bits are typically more expensive, they are also the most popular as the thickness of their shank lends durability (in their stiffness) and also less vibration during use. Bits of a smaller shank diameter tend to be less durable and more chattery. 

Altogether, a 1/2" shank bit will usually deliver the smoothest cuts and due to their greater rigidity, many larger profile bits are only available with this 1/2" shank. Similarly, some smaller or more specialized bits are only available with a 1/4" shank.

The shank of a router bit and a router collet must have the same diameter to be used together. Of course, collets of different diameters are available for purchase and are frequently included with the router itself. Adapters may also be purchased to help different bit shank sizes fit more comfortably.

Speed:

In order to cut, trim, and shape efficiently, router bits spin at very high speeds (ranging from approximately 8,000 RPM to 30,000 RPM). Because router bits are shaped and sized differently, though, all router bits can not / should not spin at the same speeds. 

For example, because larger bits have more girth and weight spinning about, they also have a much greater potential to vibrate or be, in some other capacity, out of control. Larger bits, then, should be used at lower speeds. Similarly, bits that spin too slowly can burnish and damage your materials. Accordingly, manufacturer guidelines should always be reviewed and implemented before engaging a bit.

Although, as a generality, faster speeds are more advantageous while working with router bits (they ordinarily yield a much smoother cut), speed isn't the only factor that contributes to the quality of your cutting results. The sharpness and composition of any given bit, the material being cut, the type of router being used, feed rate, and various other factors play into the results produced by your bits. Accordingly, it will behoove you to run bits at appropriate speeds before assuming the faster you spin them the smoother your results will be.

ROUTER BIT PROFILES AND APPLICATIONS:

As aforementioned, there are numerous bit designs and, according to that profile, each bit has a different specialization. The following, then, briefly sums up (in alphabetical order) the most common bit types and the things those bits do best.

Ball End Router Bits:

As the name indicates, ball end bits have a ball or sphere-shaped formation at their bottom which routs out channels for pipes and cables.

Bullnose Router Bits:

Bullnose bits are designed to create a (convex) rounded edge on the front edge of a workpiece.

Chamfering Router Bits:

Chamfering bits produce a clean angled bevel cut. These are commonly used in joinery for concealed joints and beveled edges in constructions with multiple sides. Chamfer bits are also used to create a decorative (albeit plain) angled edge.

Combination Router Bits:

Combination bits are primarily used in trimming to trim softer materials and, particularly, veneers.

Core Box or Round Nose Router Bits:

Core box or round nose bits produce a half-round groove or a groove or cove with a rounded bottom. They are commonly used for fluting and reeding.

Corner Round Router Bits:

Corner round bits are designed to create a rounded corner on a workpiece (usually furniture).

Drawer Lip Router Bits:

Drawer lip bits are used to create the acting pull-handle on the fronts of pull-handle drawers and cabinets.

Edge Forming Router Bits:

Edge forming bits (like an edge beading bit) are used primarily to create a decorative edge on a workpiece. These bits often include a pilot bearing for guidance and are ordinarily used to create a final decorative feature. Because these bits are almost singularly used for embellishment and can take on virtually any profile conceivable, there are many different types available. To name a few of the most common edge-forming bit types, one will commonly encounter edge beading bits, cove bits, ogee (or Roman ogee) bits, and round over bits.

•  Bead and Double Bead Router Bits:
  

Bead bits create a decorative quarter-round convex profile. Double bead bits so this twice with one quarter-round running directly below the other.

• Cove Router Bits:
  

Cove bits are used to create a concave (or indented) quarter-round into the edge of a material.

• Edge Beading Router Bits:
  

Edge beading bits are used to cut decorative half-round profiles called "beads" into the edge or corner of a workpiece. This edge typically features a small lip or fillet at the top and bottom of the convex half-circle cut. 

• Ogee Router Bits:

Ogee bits have an "S" shaped profile and produce an "S" shaped edge on a workpiece. These decorative edges have one convex hump and one concave cove (like an "S") and usually have a small fillet at the top and bottom of the cut. This delivers a more traditional or "antique" finish.

• Round Over Router Bits:
  

Round over bits produces a perfectly rounded edge on a workpiece. These are commonly used in cabinet and furniture making.

Finger Grip Router Bits:

Finger grip bits shape the drawer pull handles on the front edges of some drawers and cabinets.

Flush Trim Router Bits:

As the name implies, flush trim router bits are used to trim the edge of one material to be flush with the edge of another material. They are often used to flush veneers or to produce identical shapes in multiple workpieces. These bits are used with a pilot bearing that may be positioned at the top of the bit or at the base of the cutting edge. 

Fluting Router Bits:

Fluting bits are used to carve flutes (or a concave profile) into a workpiece (usually molding).

Joinery Router Bits

Joinery bits are used to produce a specialized type of groove for a precision joint. These, then, are used in virtually all types of construction where one workpiece must be joined to another. The most popular joinery bits are dovetail bits, drawer lock bits, finger joint bits, lock miter bits, and tongue-and-groove bits.

• Dovetail Router Bits:

Dovetail bits are used to create a strong joint between materials and are ordinarily used in cabinetry, frames, and shelving. They are available in a huge variety of angles and involve carving interlocking mortises and tenons (usually fan-shaped) into an adjoining workpiece.

• Drawer Lock Router Bits:

Drawer lock bits are designed specifically for the joining of perpendicular pieces (like the joining of drawer sides to drawer fronts) and should always be used with a router table. They create a wedge-shaped tenon.

• Finger Joint Router Bits:

Finger joint bits have a series of thin horizontal cutters that protrude from the bit (like fingers). When this profile is cut into two separate pieces, the grooves/extensions interlock to create a strong end or edge joint with a greater gluing surface area. Some finger joint bits feature adjustable cutters.Lock Miter Router Bits

Lock miter bits have a reputation for being difficult to use but create durable and (when used properly) perfectly aligned miter joints with a large surface area for gluing.

• Tongue-and-Groove Router Bits:

Tongue-and-groove bits are used in pairs to create a tongue-and-groove joint in a workpiece. This joins workpieces together edge-to-edge (where one piece has a thin, deep ridge (tongue) and the other has a slot (groove); these pieces are pushed tightly together to form the joint).

Keyhole Router Bits or Keyhole Slotters:

Keyhole bits are used to cut the keyhole-shaped slots found on the backs of hanging workpieces like picture frames. These slots, of course, aid in the hanging of these pieces.

Molding Router Bits:

Molding bits are used to create complex ornamental profiles in architectural and furniture moldings and are usually much larger than a typical edge-forming bit. They can incorporate multiple profiles onto one bit and produce ornate edging for molding pieces. As these bits are more substantial, they are almost always used with a router table.

Mortise Router Bits:

Mortise bits are used to carve mortises (or square-shaped slots). These are used for joinery and for carving spaces for hardware such as hinges and locksets.

Rabbeting Router Bit:

Rabbeting bits are used to create rabbets or notches at the edge of a material. These cuts/notches are vertically and horizontally straight and create a step-shaped profile. Rabbeting bits utilize a pilot bearing which is positioned at the top of the bit and guides it along the edge of a workpiece. Using pilot bearings of different diameters allows one rabbeting bit to produce cuts (rabbets) in multiple sizes.

Raised Panel Router Bit:

Raised panel bits are available in both vertical and horizontal configurations and are typically used (with a stile and rail bit - see below) to create a profile, decorative edges on a panel (i.e doors). Horizontal raised panel bits cut profiles while the panel being cut is flat (horizontal) on a work table. Vertically raised panel bits cut profiles into a panel while said panel is on its edge, and, because their radius is much smaller, are usually considered safer and simpler to operate.

Spiral Router Bits:

Spiral router bits are designed quite like a spiral drill bit with flutes ground around the body of the bit to form a sharp spiral profile. They are available in up-cut and down-cut configurations and, while ideal for plunge cutting, they are also used for edge forming, cutting, and trimming in a variety of materials.

Stile and Rail Router Bits:

In frame and panel construction, stile and rail bits are designed to create ornamental edges and panel slots in the edge of a workpiece (most commonly in raised panel doors and custom cabinets). These ordinarily come in sets of two matched bits but are also available singularly.

Straight Router Bits:

Straight bits come in a variety of cutting diameters and are designed to make straight cuts into a material to hollow out an area or to produce a grove or dado in a workpiece (usually for a mortise or inlay). Straight bits are very common and may also be used for dado joining and for general material cutting.

V-Groove Router Bits:

V-groove bits are used to carve a "V" shaped groove into a workpiece. While ideal for miter folds, these bits are commonly used in lettering and sign-making.

Veining Router Bits:

Veining bits are designed to create decorative cut-in designs. They are commonly used for free-hand work and lettering.

TIPS FOR OPTIMIZING YOUR ROUTER BITS:

To conclude this journey through router bit basics, the following are a few tips to help you optimize your router bits and your experience with them.

First, you should always store your router bits separately from one another (perhaps even in their own individual cubbies). Because router bits are both heavy and fragile, you want to minimize their contact with anything they are not presently cutting. Don't allow your bits to roll about bumping and knocking into other objects under which circumstance they will most certainly chip.

Second, keep your router bits sharp. Dull bits can damage your materials and will produce generally poor cuts. Like many other cutters, router bits can be sharpened to keep their edge.

Third, be cautious of how you handle your router. Both forcing a bit and moving one too slowly can cause overheating in both the bit and the router. An overheated bit can damage workpieces and can lose temper (which diminishes the integrity of the bit) and an overheated tool can result in internal and sometimes irreparable damage. The sound your tool makes as you cut is usually a fairly good indicator of whether or not you are properly paced.

Key Factors to Buying the Right Used Woodworking Equipment

Used woodworking equipment is typically purchased under one of two conditions: when person is beginning woodworking as a hobby or when a professional woodworker needs to upgrade his or her woodworking tools to industrial grade woodworking machinery. In either case, the decision to buy used woodworking equipment instead of new is usually based on cost savings. 

 

 

However, the cost value of used woodworking machines is based entirely on how well they perform and what needs they serve after you buy them, which means that you'll need to take some measures to ensure that you're buying a machine that will both suit your needs and perform according to your expectations. To these ends, the following is some valuable advice for purchasing used woodworking machinery.

Choosing the Right Seller

While both domestic grade and commercial grade woodworking machinery can be purchased at flea markets, auctions, from Craigslist and on eBay; if you depend on your machinery for your livelihood, you should only purchase used woodworking equipment from companies that specialize in selling it. 

In some cases, buying a used woodworking machine from one the above sources can result in getting a barely used machine at a new machine price. But it can also result in purchasing a machine that has several internal problems that its current owner might not be aware of, in which case a machine's low cost can be negated by the expensive repairs that eventually ensue.

Reconditioned or Not?

Some sellers of used woodworking machines will take decrepit machines and recondition them, meaning that just because a woodworking machine is over a decade old doesn't means that it's going to perform like it's a decade old. In most cases, sellers will be quick to point out a machine's reconditioned state. 

But you should always ask what parts of the machine have been reconditioned and what parts haven't. For example, a reconditioning of a machine's non-mechanical parts won't extend the machine's lifespan, while a machine with a fully reconditioned motor and other critical operating parts can essentially offer new machine dependability at a used machine price.

The Right Machine for the Job

The most understated tip for buying the right used woodworking equipment is a rather simple one: buy machinery that suits your needs and not machinery that over-anticipates your needs. For example, buying a $40,000 used CNC router doesn't make sense when your current output necessitates a lower capacity router that can be purchased used for around $10,000, and the same holds true for other types of industrial woodworking machinery. 

For professional woodworkers who are growing their private woodworking business, customer demand is the most reliable indicator of what machinery to purchase. While you might dream of one day operating a woodworking business that needs interstate shipping solutions, there's no reason to misspend your hard earned money until you actually get there.

5 Power Tools Needed for Easy Woodworking Projects

Almost all people think when they start out as a woodworker they need to run out and buy a ton of new tools and spend thousands of dollars. That's not true at all! Here are 5 power tools I recommend that every woodworker should have:

 

 

1. Circular Saw

This tool is probably the most versatile power tool you will have. The circular saw is a bit unnerving for some beginners in the woodworking world with lots of practice, it will quickly become your tool of choice for most of you cutting needs and is a necessity to your tool collection.

2. Power Drill

Some people argue about whether a corded drill or battery power drill is better. I like to use a battery-powered drill for most of my drilling needs With the battery power there are no chords you need to run and nothing to trip over. 

You can get the drill pretty much anywhere you need it. Drills can vary in speed and sizes. I would recommend getting a drill with a 1/2 chuck to start with so you know its big enough to handle pretty much any job.

3. Jigsaw

Another very important hand-held power tool is the jigsaw. The jigsaw allows a woodworker to cut curved and different patterns in the project. I would recommend getting a jigsaw that feels comfortable to you.

4. Orbital Sander

The last of the hand-held tools that every woodworker needs to have is a sander. You need to sand your projects smooth when finished and it would take for ever with the old style block and sheet of sandpaper.

5. Router

The last tool I'm going to recommend for any beginner is a router. The router allows you to finish the edges of you projects to your liking. They come in two different bases, a stationary base and a plunger base. I recommend the stationary base for any beginner. It will be able to take care of almost all your woodworking needs.

Now that you have bought these 5 woodworking tools you will be ready to tackle any project that comes your way. If you need help buying these tools just ask anyone in the tool department at your local home improvement store. 

As always take extreme caution when using the power tools and always make sure to have eye protection and hearing protection on. Now go out and build your dream woodworking project and have fun doing it.

IF you are ready to take on your next woodworking project feel free to visit this blog where you will find woodworking plans and tips.

IF you are ready to take on your next woodworking project feel free to visit my blog where you will find woodworking plans and tips

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6187838 

IF you are ready to take on your next woodworking project feel free to visit my blog where you will find woodworking plans and tips.

10 Tips That Will Make You Better at Biscuit Joinery

Because it produces a flush and surprisingly strong joint, biscuit joinery is becoming one of the most common methods of wood joinery in the woodworking industry. Despite the relative simplicity of the process, though, there are a few trade tricks that will ensure your joinery process and subsequent biscuit joints are more efficient and professional. Incorporate the following ten tips and fast become a better biscuit joiner.

 

 

Remember...

Better Biscuit Joinery Begins With These 10 Tips:

1. Before You Cut, Test-Cut
Of course, practice makes every performance more polished and while it's good to accumulate experience, it is also important to remain humble in the face of your project; it is important to practice and analyze a cut before pouncing directly upon your workpiece. Accordingly, you should perform a test-cut in a scrap section of your working material. This allows you to gather a better feeling for your workpiece and presents an opportunity to plop a biscuit in that practice slot. This ensures you won't encounter any surprises, jaw-droppers or knee-slappers when you engage the actual workpiece.

2. Dig a Little Deeper
To allow a little room for your biscuit to grow on and to ensure your workpieces can come together perfectly flush, cut your biscuit slots approximately 1/32nds of an inch deeper than half of the width of their corresponding biscuit. Do this on both workpieces to ensure a clean fit, a clean joint, and a spot of extra space for your biscuit to swell in.

3. Bigger Biscuits are Better
As a rule, where a joint has greater gluing surface area, the stronger that joint will be. Accordingly, when determining which biscuit size you should employ for your project, the largest biscuit that will fit is usually the best biscuit to use. Incorporating the most biscuit unfailingly results in a stronger wood joint. Despite that fact, though, it is important to appropriately down-size your biscuit when working more narrow or more delicate projects.

4. One is the Loneliest Number
If the workpieces being joined are or are greater than one-inch in thickness, use two biscuits (rather than one single biscuit) at each slot. This enhances the strength of the joint allowing it to better withstand the force of the workpieces being joined; preserve the resilience of the joint with a companion biscuit.

5. Biscuit Bandages
Despite both experience and perfectionism, some mistakes are inevitable. Accordingly, there are a few impending errors looming in any crafter's biscuit joinery future. Don't fear these blunders, though, because a biscuit can also be a bandage. If you mis-cut a slot, simply glue in a biscuit, allow it to set, and trim it flush with the edge of your workpiece. This allows you a second chance (or even a third or fourth chance) to get that slot in the right place.

6. Facial Recognition
When cutting slots into adjoining boards, it is crucial that you cut each piece with the same face facing you. In other words, to ensure your slots will align and that your workpieces will come together flush, if you cut slots in one piece with the front face facing towards you, you must also cut the second piece with its front face facing towards you. Otherwise, you'll almost certainly encounter a sciwompus joint.

7. Dump the Dust
Empty your dust bag often; this ensures a happier tool and cleaner, more accurate cuts. Of course, your dust collection system should always be engaged while cutting and you should always keep yourself protected with safety glasses and a face mask. Dust collection and a clean work environment are key elements to a high-functioning tool and an efficient work shop.

8. Trial Run
Before you go ahead and squeeze your own weight in glue onto your project, it is a good idea to put all the pieces together dry. Pre-assembling your joints (before applying any wood glue) allows you to ensure that all points are matching up as they should. Assemble the joints dry before gluing them down to establish that all edges are flush and that all slots are aligned.

9. Make the Most of Your Wiggle Room
Because the biscuit slot is a bit larger than the biscuit itself, after you've glued and assembled a joint (but before the glue sets the joint), you should have a bit of wiggle room. As such, this joining technique is one of life's only methods that grants a little leeway; use it to your advantage. If your joint isn't sitting exactly flush or is in one small way or another misaligned, push it around a little bit. The additional elbow room should allow you to maneuver and clamp the joint into a more desirable position.

10. Respect the Blade
The circular saw blade in your biscuit or plate joiner does a lot of work. Carving biscuit slots is a dirty enterprise and, accordingly, this blade can get a little dirty, too. To ensure the smoothest slot cutting and a longer life for your blade, keep the blade clean. Carefully and frequently wipe the blade and treat it to a little WD-40 after a long day. Additionally, although I want to promote a good, lasting relationship between you and your blade, if it becomes too warn to perform or begins to burn your workpieces, you should invest in a new one.

Top 3 Places To Go to Find Good Woodworking Designs

If you are in search of good woodworking designs, and you are not able to find complete plans, then the content of this article might relieve you of the frustration of where to look. 

 

 

In the next few paragraphs, we are going to look in to three places, where you will find answers to everything you need. First we are going to discuss the how-to sites and the huge advantage you will have if you get your woodworking designs from these websites. Next we are going to discuss how to use the search engines effectively to find good resources for our goal. Finally, how to get good plans from the magazines available online as well as offline.

1. The Benefits of How To Sites to Find Woodworking Designs

First, let us start with the advantages of going to the how to sites like e-how or How stuff works. The basic advantage is that the plans you will get on these sites are complete and extensive if you are just starting out. On "How stuff works" you will definitely get videos describing each step thoroughly. Another important advantage of these websites is the ease of use of these sites. It is very easy to look around the site for different plans and follow along.

2. Using Search engines to Find Good Plans

Next we are going to discuss the importance of the search engines like Google and Yahoo. If you are not using a search engine to research for your woodworking needs, you would be missing out a lot. Simple inputs like "woodworking designs" will get hundreds and hundreds of results to look in to for good plans. In fact, the only resource which will get you a huge number of relevant resources are the search engines.

3. Woodworking magazines at rescue

Finally, we are going to discuss how online, as well as offline woodworking magazines, will help you get good and proven woodworking designs.

We all know that there are a huge number of magazines like "popular woodworking magazine" available at our regular book stalls concerning this topic. One advantage of these is that once you have a magazine, you will get a complete photograph of what you are making and how it should look. This might not be the case if you get the designs by some other method. The magazines also have some useful resources on where to get tools in your local area, which can also be a very handy information.

So there you are, the three best places to look, to get good woodworking designs. We learned that "how to sites" are a great resource if you would like videos along with your designs. We also learned that there is no other resource as huge as search engines, and we should at least look in to them once.

Finally, we learned that we would also get good plans in the offline as well as online woodworking magazines.

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The History of Woodturning

The history of woodturning shows that this classic woodworking art was practiced thousands of years ago. It is the process of building, making or carving something by the use of wood. There were two significant historic civilizations that used woodworking; the Chinese and the Egyptians. Woodworking is evident on the works made by both civilizations. Egyptians had drawings and pieces of furniture that have been preserved in tombs. It was also found that the coffins in the tombs were wood turned.

 

The Chinese also had furniture made from turned wood. It was believed that it originated from Lu ban and his lovely spouse, named Lady Yun, from the Autumn as well as the Spring period. Lu Ban was considered to have brought the use of plane, chalk line and some other tools to China.

Different Forms of Woodworking: A form of woodworking which evolved after thousands of years is woodturning. Dated to around 1300 BC, Egyptians were considered to have discovered woodturning. Two persons were responsible for working a lathe in those days. The first person would turn the wood with a rope, while the second one used the sharp tools that would cut shapes in the wood. This procedure is also called two-person lathe. After some time, the process of woodturning used by Egyptians was developed by the Romans.

Adding the Turning Bow: To make the work much easier, a turning bow was added. The turning bow discovered and used by the Germans. This meant that the craftsman could use one foot to turn the lathe, freeing up his hands to use the tools for designing the spinning timber. A pedal was then used during the Middle Ages. This made the work easier and faster, though it was still hard work. The pedal that was used during that time was connected to a pole; a straight-grained sapling. Later a system known as spring pole lathe was used. These lathes were commonly used during the early 20th century.

In the Industrial Revolution: During the 18th and 19th century, also known as the Industrial Revolution, significant changes occurred with regards to agriculture, manufacturing, mining, and transport. This period also had an effect on the use of the lathe which became motorized. This allowed the turned items to be created much more quickly. Further, the motorized lathe also produced greater rotational speed for the wood, the effect of which was that to easily and quickly produce a high quality of work. Yet, compared to these days, there were less art and speed back then.

Sources of Power: The old spindle as well as the bowl lathes that were used had different sources of power - viz. manpower. These speeds were very slow speeds - even the fastest of them was still slow when compared to motorized lathes. Nowadays, such slow speeds are rare; rather the speed is likely to be great enough to fling even the tiniest work right off the lathe, especially if it has not been securely fastened. It is important then in discovering the art as well as the proper skill of woodturning to make sure that all the techniques and practices are safe and secure so that the person will be protected from injury.

New Discoveries in Woodturning: Almost every year people try to make new discoveries in woodturning. Definitely, woodturning has evolved and become a more highly skilled art form than it once was. And though the number of machines and equipment we have today is wider than was possible in the early days of woodturning, it is still important to appreciate the work of art in any simple way.

Despite the fact that the products produced from woodturning are no longer necessary because they are made from man-made materials, the ability to still create them from the process of woodturning will stay strong and will still continue for as long as there are people who believe in and appreciate the artistic and useful items of woodturning.

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The history of woodturning shows that this classic woodworking art was practiced thousands of years ago. It is the process of building, making or carving something by the use of wood. There were two significant historic civilizations that used woodworking; the Chinese and the Egyptians. Woodworking is evident on the works made by both civilizations. Egyptians had drawings and pieces of furniture that have been preserved in tombs. It was also found that the coffins in the tombs were wood turned.

The Chinese also had furniture made from turned wood. It was believed that it originated from Lu ban and his lovely spouse, named Lady Yun, from the Autumn as well as the Spring period. Lu Ban was considered to have brought the use of plane, chalk line and some other tools to China.

Different Forms of Woodworking: A form of woodworking which evolved after thousands of years is woodturning. Dated to around 1300 BC, Egyptians were considered to have discovered woodturning. Two persons were responsible for working a lathe in those days. The first person would turn the wood with a rope, while the second one used the sharp tools that would cut shapes in the wood. This procedure is also called two-person lathe. After some time, the process of woodturning used by Egyptians was developed by the Romans.

Adding the Turning Bow: To make the work much easier, a turning bow was added. The turning bow discovered and used by the Germans. This meant that the craftsman could use one foot to turn the lathe, freeing up his hands to use the tools for designing the spinning timber. A pedal was then used during the Middle Ages. This made the work easier and faster, though it was still hard work. The pedal that was used during that time was connected to a pole; a straight-grained sapling. Later a system known as spring pole lathe was used. These lathes were commonly used during the early 20th century.

In the Industrial Revolution: During the 18th and 19th century, also known as the Industrial Revolution, significant changes occurred with regards to agriculture, manufacturing, mining, and transport. This period also had an effect on the use of the lathe which became motorized. This allowed the turned items to be created much more quickly. Further, the motorized lathe also produced greater rotational speed for the wood, the effect of which was that to easily and quickly produce a high quality of work. Yet, compared to these days, there were less art and speed back then.

Sources of Power: The old spindle as well as the bowl lathes that were used had different sources of power - viz. manpower. These speeds were very slow speeds - even the fastest of them was still slow when compared to motorized lathes. Nowadays, such slow speeds are rare; rather the speed is likely to be great enough to fling even the tiniest work right off the lathe, especially if it has not been securely fastened. It is important then in discovering the art as well as the proper skill of woodturning to make sure that all the techniques and practices are safe and secure so that the person will be protected from injury.

New Discoveries in Woodturning: Almost every year people try to make new discoveries in woodturning. Definitely, woodturning has evolved and become a more highly skilled art form than it once was. And though the number of machines and equipment we have today is wider than was possible in the early days of woodturning, it is still important to appreciate the work of art in any simple way.

Despite the fact that the products produced from woodturning are no longer necessary because they are made from man-made materials, the ability to still create them from the process of woodturning will stay strong and will still continue for as long as there are people who believe in and appreciate the artistic and useful items of woodturning.

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